tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43328329637066314742024-02-20T09:39:56.271-08:00SeaRus Sales Blog SpotInformative posts for new products. DIY information and anything about boating that our readers would find interestingAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09130789286736861616noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4332832963706631474.post-86128498933908520982017-09-20T05:43:00.000-07:002017-09-20T05:48:06.972-07:00<h1 itemprop="name">
<a href="https://www.boatingwithdawsons.com/articles/boating-articles/does-your-holding-tank-really-stink.html" itemprop="url">Does Your Holding Tank Really Stink?</a></h1>
<h1 itemprop="name">
<span style="font-size: large;">This Blog by, Boating By Dawsons has great information for boaters. </span> <span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.boatingwithdawsons.com/articles/boating-articles/does-your-holding-tank-really-stink.html">https://www.boatingwithdawsons.com/articles/boating-articles/does-your-holding-tank-really-stink.html</a></span></h1>
<h1 itemprop="name">
</h1>
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<h1 itemprop="name">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"> <span style="font-size: small;">On boats with toilets, builders install a holding tank to hold the
sewage until the boat reaches a pump out facility. Some yachts come
equipped with a “Y” valve, so that they can choose to pump out or
discharge overboard while way out in the ocean. In most of Canada and
the United States, it is illegal to discharge overboard
and there are heavy fines for doing so. It is advisable to leave the
overboard discharge valve locked to prevent accidental discharge and
fines.</span></span>
</h1>
Most holding tanks are plastic, but there are some stainless steel tanks and even a few aluminum tanks still around.<br />
Back in the 1960's, we were involved with the Ontario Marine
Operators Association's negotiations with the Ontario Government to
introduce the first Holding Tank and Pump-Out legislation in North
America. This put a stop to all black water (holding tank waste) from
entering the waterways.<br />
<h2>
Odor Prevention</h2>
<b>To prevent odor</b>, there are several things you can do.<br />
<ul>
<li>Make sure your holding tank system has adequate air flow. Eliminate
any low spots in vent lines that would restrict the flow of air. Aerobic
bacteria (the good guys) requires oxygen to live and function.</li>
<li>Avoid the use of detergent, bleach, dish soap or other cleaners or odor-masking agents in the holding tank.</li>
<li>If using a head chemical, use one that is formaldehyde and bromine
free to allow aerobic bacteria to live and work properly in the tank.</li>
<li>Change the hoses, seals, gaskets and impellers in your sanitation
system on a regular basis and fix immediately if there is a problem.</li>
<li>Always pump out when you can, before it is full; otherwise, it could
overflow and fill the air breather or leak into the bilge and/or back
up in the toilet.</li>
</ul>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09130789286736861616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4332832963706631474.post-52315571947156096542014-05-20T07:16:00.000-07:002014-05-20T07:28:33.556-07:00Waxing Your Boat Tips<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvuW3256EGP4b8bxzOBO6gsLRamecakmvUE4GPUNVju5u7_hx1YSRXFslPvKg2aI8_kWaR_vdyWs3pKI2AL-Y8E84Vbpi6_m1GyFW6pt6pXx0j_VDNuw9sex7dgQ8v7P103rhWQ2I-O6Tn/s1600/waxing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvuW3256EGP4b8bxzOBO6gsLRamecakmvUE4GPUNVju5u7_hx1YSRXFslPvKg2aI8_kWaR_vdyWs3pKI2AL-Y8E84Vbpi6_m1GyFW6pt6pXx0j_VDNuw9sex7dgQ8v7P103rhWQ2I-O6Tn/s1600/waxing.jpg" height="285" width="400" /></a></div>
There are several ways to attack the buff-and-wax ritual, and I would
not say there is one right way for everyone. However, some approaches
do get better results than others. I would categorize the types of wax
jobs like this:<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>1) </b>The quick-and-dirty boat wax job, for the
full-time cruiser who just wants to protect the boat's gelcoat from
further degradation, prevent gelcoat stains, and make boat-cleaning jobs
easier.<br />
<br />
<b>2) </b>The perfectionist wax job, for the sailor who wants all of the above, plus wants the boat to look its glossy-best.<br />
<br />
<b>3)</b> The in-between wax job, for the sailor who wants
his boat to look good, but not at the expense of adding an extra day to
his haulout or lay-days.<br />
<br />
And certainly, the condition of the boat has a big impact on how you
approach the project. If you're bringing a boat back from the dead, the
quick-and-dirty wax job is not really an option (although some makers of
"miracle products" would lead you to think differently). You must be
prepared to put in some elbow grease.<br />
<br />
No matter which category you are in, your waxing job will have three basic steps:<br />
<br />
<b>1)</b> Cleaning: This includes getting rid of salt,
dirt, grease, mold, stains. You could break this down into various
stages, depending on the condition of the hull, general cleaning and
stain removal.<br />
<br />
<b>2) </b>Polishing: This creates the smooth glossy surface
to be protected. If you have an old hull, there could be several stages
to this process.<br />
<br />
<b>3)</b> Waxing: This is the application of a thin polymer or natural wax coating to seal and protect your polished gelcoat.<br />
<br />
The important thing to remember is that if your hull is not clean
before you begin polishing or waxing, you might drive dirt further into
the pores of the gelcoat. Not the end of the world, but you won't get
the best results.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Tools</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
Your biggest investment will be a good polisher. We've looked at
various options, ranging from el-cheapos to mid-priced powertools aimed
at the automotive market, to higher-end tools geared specifically for
use on boats. Lately, for polishing, waxing, and buffing, we've been
using a Dewalt variable-speed polisher, the DeWalt DW849, with a 3M
3M-05705 Superbuff Polishing Pad and the 3M-05710 Superbuff Adapter
(used to fit pads on any standard 5/8-inch shaft slow-speed polisher).<br />
<br />
<br />
Two other products worth looking at:<br />
<a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_6/chandlery/Restoring-Gelcoat_5624-1.html">An inexpensive variable speed from Chicago Electric</a>:<br />
This one rattles and and hums, but it works. Ours is still working,
but it gets used only twice a year. Harbor Freight also has 7.5-inch
wool buffing pads to match for much less than the 3M versions.<br />
<br />
There is also a <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_4/chandlery/Hull-Wax-Polish_5904-1.html" target="_blank">marine-tailored, small-diameter, dual-action polisher from Shurhold</a>.<br />
This one helps avoid swirl marks and is relatively lightweight. It's good for micro-finishing. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5I5vOQwwM9HMWSUh1JKLB8ii2vEUElJtp9U7sQuQyPFgjkfX4Og2mzlLwvqXbPyI8y_Z_v-Fm-YeKZ53_ePSgUcdxASIkNmd_zMt8wg6-ToTbs8ikLHAz8jcKMbfvVZTNffreZk1C2MkS/s1600/shurhold_polisher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5I5vOQwwM9HMWSUh1JKLB8ii2vEUElJtp9U7sQuQyPFgjkfX4Og2mzlLwvqXbPyI8y_Z_v-Fm-YeKZ53_ePSgUcdxASIkNmd_zMt8wg6-ToTbs8ikLHAz8jcKMbfvVZTNffreZk1C2MkS/s1600/shurhold_polisher.jpg" height="157" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
It has some nice features (like a built-in breaker, in case there is a
fault in the circuit), and is sized to take the smaller 3M Finesse-It
pads that 3M recommend for the Finesse It step below. Shurhold also
makes its own buffing compound, Buff-Magic.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Machine Technique</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
I generally apply the compound and wax by hand, using a basic
microfiber round waxing pad. I then use the Dewalt to compound and
remove wax. The key is to go very light at a low-RPM. I often will buff
again with one of those really soft "lambswool" buffing pads, or a
microfiber cloth by hand. Good polishing products will designate the
RPM-range that is suitable. Start at the low end of that range.<br />
<br />
<h4>
General Cleaning</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
Wash thoroughly, removing all oil and grease. We haven't tested boat
soaps, but if you want to get rid of the old wax, keep in mind that many
boat soaps are mildly formulated not to remove waxes. For this stage of
cleaning, Nick likes Simple Green. He dilutes as needed. You could do
the same with one of the recommended cleaners below in our multipurpose
cleaner test, which includes some eco-friendly choices.<br />
For serious stains, spray your chosen cleaner undiluted. Note that ALL of the spray cleaners in our <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_11/features/Multi-Purpose-Spray-Cleaners_5980-1.html" target="_blank">last multipurpose cleaner test</a> removed wax.<br />
For mildew, chlorine is the ticket. Outdoor Clorox works well. You can also try some of the best products in our <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/35_1/features/Marine-Maintenance-Mildew-Prodcuts_5726-1.html" target="_blank">last mildew cleaner test</a>, which included some more eco-friendly solutions.<br />
If grease or exhaust soot is the big problem, then a <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_2/features/Best-Degreaser-Galley-Stoves_5885-1.html" target="_blank">degreaser</a> will also work.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Serious Hull Stains</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
Mild acids are very effective at attacking serious stains that don't
respond to the above treatments. Used incorrectly or in strong
concentrations, acid cleaners can harm gelcoat, so use it sparingly and
follow directions. Do a test patch first, and be sure to rinse
thoroughly. Also, be sure to cover a trailer well as it will take
galvanizing and even paint off. Keep away from paint and varnish.
Clearly, it is better to do all of your hull cleaning before painting
the bottom.<br />
Nick liked the Davis FSR gel, here's our complete report on on <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_11/features/Boat-Cleaning-Products_5531-1.html" target="_blank">22 different hull-stain cleaners</a>.<br />
For a softer, more eco-friendly cleaner check out <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_3/chandlery/Waterline-Hull-Stain-Cleaners_5584-1.html" target="_blank">RidLyme</a>.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Cleaning Solvents</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
The above multi-purpose cleaners should have eliminated any grease or
dirt that would interfere with polishing and waxing, but some, like <a href="http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/01.htm" target="_blank">Don Casey</a>, mention solvents. I personally don't do this step unless I'm painting, but there is nothing wrong with taking the extra step.<br />
Casey recommends MEK over acetone. Interlux 202 Fiberglass Solvent
Wash is another one that we've used. It seems to evaporate a little
slower down here in Florida.<br />
Also, we are looking at some "green" dewaxing solvents now from <a href="http://www.rpm-technology.com/" target="_blank">RPM technologies</a> although these appear aimed at the industrial market.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Compounds</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
Once you are assured you won't be driving grease and dirt deeper into
the hull, you can begin polishing, or compounding. Be sure to wear
goggles and a dust mask while doing this step. This process also removes
any remaining old wax. Many wax manufacturers have a specific product
that also includes a cleaning component (often petroleum-based) to get
rid of grease and dirt. Collinite's Boat Cleaner 920 is an example.<br />
<br />
How aggressively you want to polish your hull will depend on the hull
condition. On a badly worn hull, you could wet sand with 800 grit
wet-dry paper, followed by finer grits and then polishing compounds. If
you've been waxing your hull regularly, and see no signs of oxidation,
you might not even want to buff and skip to micro-finishing or waxing.
Or, you could combine the buff and wax process into one with a one-step
cleaner wax. The idea is to start with the least aggressive compound you need.<br />
<br />
We haven't tested buffing compounds, although they all work basically
the same way, they contain a mild abrasive suspended in a liquid or
paste used for polishing the hull. The current trend is toward
water-based products like <a href="http://www.aqua-buff.com/" target="_blank">Aqua Buff</a>,
which contain no petroleum distillates. I have had good luck with 3M
Imperial Compound and Finishing Material, which does. Whatever compound
you use, start with the mildest (highest # grit) that you need.<br />
<br />
For what power tools to use, see the power tool details above. In
addition to the Superbuff pad mentioned before, I have also used 3M
hook-It Velcro pads for polishing. In any case, I smear polish on the
hull with a foam waxing pad and go VERY LIGHTLY at a low RPM. 3M
recommends 1,000-1,500 RPM for its Imperial Finish. Keep the polisher
moving to avoid heat buildup or over-polishing.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Micro-Finishes/Glaze</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Many people skip this step, but I find it produces a better gloss if you
do it, particularly when trying to restore the gloss to an older boat.
We have not tested this product category. Essentially, this is an even
finer polish than those used for compounding. For this, I use 3M Finesse
It II. Several of the automotive-oriented waxes in our <a href="http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/36_9/features/Liquid-Boat-Wax_5961-1.html" target="_blank">liquid wax test</a>
have similar products. On a small boat, you can apply it by hand, but I
do it by machine. Again, apply light pressure and use a slow RPM, being
careful to follow the instructions. Do a small area at a time.</span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></h4>
<h4>
Wax</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
Now that your hull is shiny, it is time to protect it. We've tested
dozens of liquid waxes and paste waxes. Generally, the pastes offer
harder protection that lasts longer and the liquids are easier to apply
and last almost as long. I generally stick with the Collinite 885 paste
wax. Contributing editor Frank Lanier, who waxed his hull by hand, found
it too much work and was quite happy with the Collinite. A number of
readers swear by the Nu Finish. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidfbBS6PZ2JlHRoICqdxSkEpU4mb5wxMOxo2LGqr1DhMoRFbNeLWL_ZccYMYm-nwuZFU2ZVgMs79SibDcWXePZEsTDWm2OYRAkgU0PNIYejZEyoZJoQFQuezAAviKkUMQYncI3HAm7M66H/s1600/collinite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidfbBS6PZ2JlHRoICqdxSkEpU4mb5wxMOxo2LGqr1DhMoRFbNeLWL_ZccYMYm-nwuZFU2ZVgMs79SibDcWXePZEsTDWm2OYRAkgU0PNIYejZEyoZJoQFQuezAAviKkUMQYncI3HAm7M66H/s1600/collinite.jpg" height="186" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
I usually use the the same tools I used for compounding, although I
change to a clean pad. I usually apply the wax by hand using a foam
microfiber pad, and then buff with the machine. Working in small areas.
Don't let the Collinite 885 dry too hard, or it becomes hard to buff.
Also, don't lay it on too thick. If you work in cooler temperatures,
this can be a tough product to apply, but you can warm up the can
slightly to soften it up. Usually, I have to go over the hull twice to
get the shine. Sometimes I'll switch to a very soft buffing pad for this
last step.<br />
<br />
Jamestown Distributors has a pretty good video on refinishing an old
hull using the 3M system. It's pretty heavy on the 3M products ads.
Often, you can do just as well with products from your local Finish
Master or similar auto-refinishing place. They also have a pretty good
polishing kit that has everything you need, including the polisher.<br />
<br />
Happy waxing.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09130789286736861616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4332832963706631474.post-91275752728955320402013-10-20T09:43:00.002-07:002013-10-20T09:43:32.883-07:00Fall Boat Maintenance – Winterizing Your Boat<!--[if !mso]>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUCSOt9SZCILQP9lKdjrWmqgG3upH3e8am-JjTNVLzc64Sp52Qsku1hhgU0VMOmWRqRBhPlXKZ31YDJR_j8NNZZekvGeTP2CXKi0F9bZU4B2MiEtj6poxjfOsduxyqHCSHCa_Zl8upCO5n/s1600/winter+season.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUCSOt9SZCILQP9lKdjrWmqgG3upH3e8am-JjTNVLzc64Sp52Qsku1hhgU0VMOmWRqRBhPlXKZ31YDJR_j8NNZZekvGeTP2CXKi0F9bZU4B2MiEtj6poxjfOsduxyqHCSHCa_Zl8upCO5n/s400/winter+season.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Unfortunately, the boating season is
winding down in many parts of the country and it is time to start thinking
about protecting your valuable recreational asset. Winterizing a boat reminds
me of the old commercial that says "pay me now or pay me later." The
time and effort you spend now will have a definite effect on your boat's
performance, or lack of it, and certainly save you time, effort and money come
spring. You should remember that your insurance policy may not cover damage
done by lack of maintenance or neglect.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The best place for your boat to be
during the winter is out of the water, under cover, in a climate-controlled
boat storage area. This, however, can be expensive. If don't have this option
perhaps you should consider shrink-wrapping your boat. This, too, is a little
expensive but provides a very protective cover. Short of these two items, make
sure that your boat is well covered with a tarp or some other sturdy cover.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Your first step in winterizing
should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check
the owner's manual of your boat and motor(s) for manufacturer's recommendations
on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the
assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to
do the job. The following is a generic outline of areas which should be of
concern to you, however, there are many resources on the Internet with more
detailed and specific information.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Inboard Engine(s) </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You should run the engine(s) to warm it up and change the
oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with
the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine(s) with
fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a
pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and
allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This
process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a <b>"Raw
Water"</b> cooling system or an <b>"Enclosed Fresh Water"</b>
cooling system. While you're in the engine room you should also change the
fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use "fogging oil"
to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed
with a little fogging oil or WD-40. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Stern Drive(s) </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any
plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and check for
excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be
repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a
rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check
fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner's
manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Flush engine with fresh water using flush muffs or similar
device attached to the raw water pickup. Let all water drain from the engine.
Wash engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Disconnect fuel hose
and run engine until it stops. It is important to follow a step by step process
to make sure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor to prevent build-up
of deposits from evaporated fuel. Use fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate
the cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft
and threads. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. Lightly lubricate the
exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a buildup of condensation
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water
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with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze to prevent any
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater.
Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect
them together. Pump a <b>non-toxic</b> antifreeze into the system and turn on
all the facets including the shower and any wash-down areas until you see the
antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While
pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish
crystals or whatever your owner's manual recommends that will not harm your
system and let sit for a few minutes. Again add fresh water and pump out again.
Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and
discharge hose. Again, check your owners manual to make sure that an
alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage your system. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Once you have taken care of the system you should remove any
valuables, electronics, lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc.
Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary.
Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so
that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a
climate controlled area. Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer. To keep
your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use
some of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber products such as "No
Damp," "Damp Away" or "Sportsman's Mate." </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Out of Water Storage </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt 0.5in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts,
rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. Open
seacocks to allow any water to drain. Check the hull for blisters and if you
find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over
the winter. While you're at it, why not give the hull a good wax job? It is
probably best to take the batteries out of the boat and take them home and
either put them on a trickle charger or charge them every 30-60 days. </span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In Water Storage </span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Close all sea-cocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing
boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary. Check your battery to make
sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure
your charging system is working. Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working
and that float switches properly activate the pumps and that they are not
hindered by debris. Make sure either to check your boat periodically or have
the marina check it and report to you. If in an area where the water you are
docked or moored in actually freezes, you should have a de-icing device or
bubbling system around your boat. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I personally put these in my engine and aft bilge compartments, which does a fantastic job of keeping any condensation or corrosion from happening during he cold winter months. We do not usually get freezing water in the winter at our marina.</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09130789286736861616noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4332832963706631474.post-33691699756678652582013-10-01T19:31:00.000-07:002013-10-01T19:31:03.599-07:00The "No Stank" Marine Holding Tank Vent Filter<h4>
<span style="color: blue;"><strong><em> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</em></strong></span></h4>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;"><strong><em>The last holding tank vent filter you will ever need”</em></strong></span></h2>
<strong>100% Satisfaction Guarantee</strong>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jICa7_Ubnep1DjDLfR5VTD8erG9TAmScL6EDQwHu89mUEujeo-ONbmP67nzx54eRv8xCfwxph7gNbKKrVVW4WMGmvbhatpuCutZySHLxb04M-aSLQ0C70zaE6-DddJXgnSmD1oFnzPAU/s1600/Man_Plugging_His_Nose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jICa7_Ubnep1DjDLfR5VTD8erG9TAmScL6EDQwHu89mUEujeo-ONbmP67nzx54eRv8xCfwxph7gNbKKrVVW4WMGmvbhatpuCutZySHLxb04M-aSLQ0C70zaE6-DddJXgnSmD1oFnzPAU/s1600/Man_Plugging_His_Nose.jpg" /></a>Don’t be the boater that offends others when your toilet gets flushed! <br />
<br />
<br />
The <strong><em>No Stank</em></strong> holding tank vent filter
(model 18334HC) is specially designed to eliminate odors by capturing
heavier-than-air gases that come from your holding tank.<br />
<br />
The filter is rechargeable at a fraction of the cost of buying those throw away filters each year.<br />
No need for toilet chemicals to control odors in the holding tank.
Charged filter last for an entire season or more depending on toilet
use.<br />
<br />Constructed with High Quality materials. Carbon pellets
specially formulated for maximum air purification with less resistance
to air flow through filter. Not cheap fish tank (water) carbon.<br />
<br />
Filter footprint 18.25" long x 3" wide area (464 mm x 76 mm)<br />
<br />
The unit includes: Two (2) 3/4" x garden hose nylon adapters, Two (2)
5/8" ID hose (16 mm) x female garden hose nylon swivel w/washers (makes
removal and install easy, just hand tighten), Two (2) Zinc Plated
Mounting Clips, Two (2) SS screws,Two (2) SS hose clamps.<br />
<ul>
<li>Saves money on initial purchase and every year saves you even more $$$$</li>
<li>30% more filtering area vs. other NON SaniGard (tm) type filters on the market.</li>
<li>Easy to install & remove for servicing.</li>
<li>Eliminates holding tank vent odors.</li>
<li>Can mount horizontal or vertical.</li>
<li>No need for toilet chemicals to control holding tank odors.</li>
<li>Filter lasts an entire season or more depending on toilet use.</li>
<li>Easy-to-replace filter carbon material.</li>
<li>Recharge filter carbon at pennies on the dollar vs. buying throw away filters each year.</li>
<li>Environmentally friendly since you only throw away carbon that ends up in landfills.</li>
</ul>
Direct replacement for <span class="ModelNameLabel" id="ctl00_RegionOuterPage_RegionPage_RegionContent_RegionMainContent_ModelNameLabel">SaniGard
(tm) Holding Tank Vent Filter. Other filters on the market are either
smaller (less filtering of odors) and/or require replacement
(throw-away) each year.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="ModelNameLabel"><span face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span color="#00429a" face="Arial" size="4" style="color: #00429a; font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;"><i>Check out the product at our website <a href="http://www.searussales.com/" target="_blank">www.SeaRusSales.com </a></i><b><i><br /></i></b></span></span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09130789286736861616noreply@blogger.com0