Unfortunately, the boating season is
winding down in many parts of the country and it is time to start thinking
about protecting your valuable recreational asset. Winterizing a boat reminds
me of the old commercial that says "pay me now or pay me later." The
time and effort you spend now will have a definite effect on your boat's
performance, or lack of it, and certainly save you time, effort and money come
spring. You should remember that your insurance policy may not cover damage
done by lack of maintenance or neglect.
The best place for your boat to be
during the winter is out of the water, under cover, in a climate-controlled
boat storage area. This, however, can be expensive. If don't have this option
perhaps you should consider shrink-wrapping your boat. This, too, is a little
expensive but provides a very protective cover. Short of these two items, make
sure that your boat is well covered with a tarp or some other sturdy cover.
Your first step in winterizing
should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check
the owner's manual of your boat and motor(s) for manufacturer's recommendations
on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the
assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to
do the job. The following is a generic outline of areas which should be of
concern to you, however, there are many resources on the Internet with more
detailed and specific information.
Inboard Engine(s)
You should run the engine(s) to warm it up and change the
oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with
the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine(s) with
fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a
pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and
allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This
process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a "Raw
Water" cooling system or an "Enclosed Fresh Water"
cooling system. While you're in the engine room you should also change the
fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use "fogging oil"
to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed
with a little fogging oil or WD-40.
Stern Drive(s)
You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any
plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and check for
excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be
repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a
rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check
fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner's
manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer.
Outboard Engine(s)
Flush engine with fresh water using flush muffs or similar
device attached to the raw water pickup. Let all water drain from the engine.
Wash engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Disconnect fuel hose
and run engine until it stops. It is important to follow a step by step process
to make sure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor to prevent build-up
of deposits from evaporated fuel. Use fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate
the cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft
and threads. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. Lightly lubricate the
exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.
Fuel
Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a buildup of condensation
over the winter months. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on
the product. Change the fuel filter(s) and water separator(s).
Bilges
Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water
and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills. Once the bilges are clean, spray
with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze to prevent any
water from freezing.
Fresh Water System
Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater.
Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect
them together. Pump a non-toxic antifreeze into the system and turn on
all the facets including the shower and any wash-down areas until you see the
antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater.
Head
Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While
pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish
crystals or whatever your owner's manual recommends that will not harm your
system and let sit for a few minutes. Again add fresh water and pump out again.
Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and
discharge hose. Again, check your owners manual to make sure that an
alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage your system.
Interior
Once you have taken care of the system you should remove any
valuables, electronics, lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc.
Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary.
Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so
that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a
climate controlled area. Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer. To keep
your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use
some of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber products such as "No
Damp," "Damp Away" or "Sportsman's Mate."
Out of Water Storage
Pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts,
rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. Open
seacocks to allow any water to drain. Check the hull for blisters and if you
find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over
the winter. While you're at it, why not give the hull a good wax job? It is
probably best to take the batteries out of the boat and take them home and
either put them on a trickle charger or charge them every 30-60 days.
In Water Storage
Close all sea-cocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing
boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary. Check your battery to make
sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure
your charging system is working. Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working
and that float switches properly activate the pumps and that they are not
hindered by debris. Make sure either to check your boat periodically or have
the marina check it and report to you. If in an area where the water you are
docked or moored in actually freezes, you should have a de-icing device or
bubbling system around your boat.
I personally put these in my engine and aft bilge compartments, which does a fantastic job of keeping any condensation or corrosion from happening during he cold winter months. We do not usually get freezing water in the winter at our marina.
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